25 June, 2012 25 June, 2012

Slummies – Backyard Diaries Day 1

rankie Oberholzer, Royden Bryson, Davey Weare, Greg Emsie and Devyn Mattheys set the vibe for the rest of the week after sampling some decent waves on day one of the Zigzag Backyard Diaries.
I don’t care what you call this place, I am sold on it already. It’s officially my first stay in this East Coast town – previous ventures into these parts lasted only about 20 minutes when we cruised through to buy one of the infamous Friesland Milkshakes on our way to the Mecca of South African surfing, J-Bay. But what a place. The crew arrived last night from different parts of SA, and we all congregated at the big bad Wulff’s pad. Weary eyed travellers crashed out pretty soon after saying their hello’s and went to sleep dreaming of some cooking waves the following morning.Morning dawned with a fresh wind blowing out of the SW, not ideal for one of the more exposed waves we’re after, but we decided to go check it out anyways. The waves were a little lumpy, but the boys got a taste of what it had to offer and are frothing to get it cranking sometime. Devyn Mattheys and Greg had it wired, but Frankie and Davey Weare took little time to get into rhythm out there and got some good barrels of there own.

After a solid session the crew came in and were getting changed when suddenly Royden Bryson shouted hysterically, “check this bodyboarder he was so anxious to get away from all these surfers that he forgot to put his boogieboard in the car and reversed straight over it.” The boys burst into laughter as Royden threw the board in his car and drove off after the guy to return his precious board.

South African surfing is so blessed to have a legend like Frankie Oberholzer…The guy is a true waterman and has lived a life most of you would envy. He is also one of the funniest people I have ever met, always coming with a story about this, or a joke about that, constantly keeping you spitting out your chips or shooting coke from your nose. What a legend…

After the ledge we all jumped into the cars and headed for another spot. Although the swell direction was a little wrong, surprisingly the waves were really fun. The local guys in the crew said that it is not usual for that wave to break with that swell direction. Royden smacked the lip so hard at this spot, free-fell into the pit and proceeded to smack it again, it was scary. Devyn continued to find the tubes, Greg was shredding, as was Davey, and ‘Ol Frank was smacking the lip at 2’O Clock everytime on his forehand. It is good to see such vertical surfing.

We hit one more surf just as the sun was disappearing at yet another spot which was loaded with potential. I hope to catch that spot again this week. It was a solid days surfing, from sunrise to sunset, now we’re just sitting back with a few beers, and the Wulff is encouraging us to drink Black Sambucca with him. Guess we will see the real Buzz Lightyear tonight… Sleep will come easy after dinner though, especially after a day with three sessions under the belt.

Yebo, life is good in SA.

– Clavicus

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