A poem about the waves we surf and why we’re hooked on riding them. ‘Going Surfing’ is the title of Dustin Brown’s entry into Write To Surf – Zag’s surf journo competition with epic prizes by Billabong up for grabs (see details below).
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GOING SURFING – by Dustin Brown (all photos by Dustin Brown / Shot Bru)
Sometimes it is the alarm that stirs our first motion,
Many others times it comes from pure anticipation of connecting with the Ocean.
There may be many days in our lives we have felt reluctant to rise,
But when nature gifts us with the prospect of a few good rides it’s easy to open our eyes.
We make our journey to the beach, while others are lying fast asleep,
Us early birds seek waves to reap.
All equipment prepped last night,
We suit up and stretch to release those muscles tight.
A fresh layer of wax is next applied to the craft we choose to ride,
Releasing a wonderful aroma as over our board it glides.
Walking onto the beach we feel the familiar sand upon our feet,
As we near the water’s edge, our hearts pick up their beat.
Sometimes the first touch of cold water may not be too inviting,
But the site of one good wave and our passion begins igniting.
Paddling out towards the back is what we do the most,
In steady strokes towards our goal we must become engrossed.
At first the waves move against our desired flow,
When one comes to meet our path we push ourselves below.
A deep passion for our art makes us forget we are ever tired,
Our focus remains only on the waves to be desired.
Finally we make our way out to the back and get a moment to rest,
Until we see a wave and that is where we begin with re-inspired zest.
In the period between the waves we chat, or rest our minds from busy thought,
From moments such as these many epiphanies are brought.
In the stillness between waves our perception of the ocean’s energy and life becomes abundant,
A playful school of passing dolphins is a visit which will never become redundant.
Energy is what we truly ride,
This is the energy which brings us great joy so deep inside.
The ocean is a medium giving waves a physical shape,
And once you’re hooked on this great thrill there is truly no escape.
Paddling into a wave, we leap up to our feet,
Our magic carpet ride is about to become concrete.
Surfing brings us so much joy, but there’s more to it than that,
The ocean changes all the time and can be completely flat.
Letting go and accepting what it is are at the fore,
Yet no matter what occurs we will always come back for more.
Big angry oceans are great teachers, helping us to know who we truly are,
But perhaps sometimes it is better to stay in the car.
Surfing’s one great lesson I hope you have not missed,
By being in this moment now we all can live in bliss.
Click here to check out all the published stories from our Write To Surf competition.
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THE FINEPRINT:
Send your stories to calvin@zigzag.co.za. One submission will be selected every six weeks to appear in Zigzag magazine. The selected submission will also receive a hamper from Billabong. At the end of the year, we will select and send one aspirant journalist from the competition on an all expenses paid assignment for a major feature in Zigzag. Zigzag retains the right to use any work submitted for the Zag Surf Journo competition on zigzag.co.za as outlined in the rules and terms of the competition. Zigzag reserves the right not to award a published winner in the magazine every six weeks, depending on the quality of entries. Zigzag is not obligated to run any and all entries submitted, either online or in print. Zigzag retains the right to edit all work submitted for brevity and / or clarity. Please note: Prize hampers will only be delivered within South Africa. *Disclaimer: Views expressed in Write to Surf entries are those of the author.
The Billabong prize hamper includes: 1 x Billabong Wetsuit; 1 x Billabong Hoodie; 1 x Billabong Cap; 1 x Von Zipper Sunnies; 2 x Da Kine traction pads.
