Not all stories have a happy ending. ‘Dead Men Don’t Surf’ is Scott Mathie’s entry into Write To Surf – Zag’s surf journo competition with epic prizes by Billabong up for grabs (see details below).
DEAD MEN DON’T SURF – by: Scott Mathie
The low rumbling emanating from the wheels of my skateboard wake me from my horrific daydream. The 6’0” under my arm and my backpack start to grow heavy. The road seems to go on forever. Some potholes and bumps make sure I’m fully focussed on my objective; the swell, it has arrived. I can hear it as I near the beach. I’m here.
I put on my suit and cast my eyes to the waves crashing on to the black rock metres below the surface. I place my skateboard in the lifesaver’s shack.
“Hi Reg, gonna get a few before your shift?” smiles Moses the carguard.
“Ja, hopefully I don’t get invaded by those damn skiers again.” I had forgotten something, I can feel it.
Barrels, they roll around me but they’re not the perfect one. Moses once said that a perfect barrel is a gift from heaven never to be wasted by man, and he should know because he has been here for over 30 years.
It came out of nowhere – a solemn peak rolling from the east. I turn and paddle as fast as I can and I’m on it.
My foot slips; I forgot to put on wax! I fall in to the water headfirst. Darkness surrounds me and then there’s a sharp and definite crack. Suddenly a powerful light reveals itself and I reach out and grab it. In that split second I breathe out and let the water consume me…
“A young surfer, Reginald Masters, drowned today after hitting his head on the rock at his local spot,” read the report in the local paper the next day. “There were no lifeguards on duty at the time of his death. He will be sorely missed by all.”
Opinions expressed in Write To Surf entries are not necessarily those of Zigzag.
Click here to check out all the published stories from our Write To Surf competition.
Send your stories to email@example.com. One submission will be selected every six weeks to appear in Zigzag magazine. The selected submission will also receive a hamper from Billabong. At the end of the year, we will select and send one aspirant journalist from the competition on an all expenses paid assignment for a major feature in Zigzag. Zigzag retains the right to use any work submitted for the Zag Surf Journo competition on zigzag.co.za as outlined in the rules and terms of the competition. Zigzag reserves the right not to award a published winner in the magazine every six weeks, depending on the quality of entries. Zigzag is not obligated to run any and all entries submitted, either online or in print. Zigzag retains the right to edit all work submitted for brevity and / or clarity. Please note: Prize hampers will only be delivered within South Africa.
The Billabong prize hamper includes: 1 x Billabong Wetsuit; 1 x Billabong Hoodie; 1 x Billabong Cap; 1 x Von Zipper Sunnies; 2 x Da Kine traction pads.