First reef, second reef, third reef… Take your pick.
There’s a solid Saffa crew camped out on Hawaii’s North Shore hoping to cash in on some late season swells that have been bombarding the seven mile miracle. The Volcom Pipe Pro went down in some serious waves at Pipe, and the event even had to be called off on Day 1 due to the surf being too unruly for a contest.
The victory-at-sea session that went down after the contest was called off was nothing short of incredible, and Kommetjie’s Matt Bromley managed to snag one of the craziest barrels of his life. We dropped in on the lanky charger to get the lowdown:
Zigzag: Aloha Bromdog. What’s cracking bru?
Matt: Howzit man. Well my finger is healing up nicely (Bromdog dislocated his finger at OTW – Ed) and the waves are looking frikken massive for next week. They’re saying Eddie for sure. How sick! Shaun and myself have been having the most insane Ping Pong battles at the Billabong House. We’re owning everyone!
Reports filtering back from Hawaii are claiming you as one of the standouts in that frikken gnarly sesh out at Pipe and Backdoor after the Volcom Pro was called off.
Ja, the waves have been absolutely solid and pumping this side. We’ve had at least five sessions already where third reef Pipe has been breaking. I’ve only had one absolute screamer – The swell was too big in the morning and then it started to calm in the arvo, so Shaun and myself put our gnarly boots on and headed out.
Tell us about that one wave.
The first reef was already crowded, so I went and sat farthest out, in line with OTW, and waited for a bomb on my DVG 7’0″ – I was super undergunned. This one massive thing popped up and I thought to myself, “stuff this…I’m going!” It was a steep drop out the back before heading for the first reef. As I rode into the first reef bowl the owes were hooting, just as the wave was bottoming out and standing up way down the line. I had the biggest barrel of my life and got super frikkin’ chowed! (check out the next issue of Zigzag for the ride in question – it’s hands down one of the craziest waves we’ve ever seen a Saffa on at Pipe – Ed)
How’d Shaun go out there?
Shaun’s been charging the rights. I guess from surfing Mossel Baai’s right points he’s somehow at home in the madness at Backdoor. He’s been charging.
You and Shaun also had a couple big ones at Waimea. On the adrenaline pumping scale how does a big one out there compare to a big wave at Pipe?
We got some crackers at Waimea. Shaun and myself paddled out and all the gnarliest chargers were wearing paddle flotation vests. That kind of freaked us out, but we shared some bombs together and got back to beach through that treacherous shorebreak in one piece. We had such a jol. Frank (Solomon) was also out there and was tuning us some heavy stuff about Mavericks.
Is it as heavy as they say?
Waimea has got nothing on our big wave spots at home, it breaks in the same place and the water’s warm. So it’s max respect to the CT boys. Waimea is like a dream big wave spot compared to Dungeons.
Waimea also doesn’t compare to massive Pipe on the adrenaline-scale. You have to have serious balls to even think of paddling into a bomb out there. Even the heaviest china’s are scared at Pipe when it’s big.
Instagram moment before paddling out at Waimea with Shaun and friend Ian Fontain. © Shaun Joubert / Instagram
You dislocated your finger before the Volcom event, how’d you manage that?
That was a crazy incident with my finger bru. It was a small wave at OTW and I came short and hit the reef. When I came up my finger was pointing out at about a 60 degree angle from my first joint. I panicked, ran up the beach and Makua (Rothman) chooned me to just pull it. When he tells you to do something, you do it! So I pulled it and it popped back into place. It’s still black and swollen a week later, but it’s doing it’s job.
What’s the vibe been like in the water?
The vibe is pretty weird at the moment because it’s been so big that everyone is spread out and stressing balls. But as soon as it gets settled on the first reef again the local boys will be chooning owes and there will be a lot of “deep man-voice” shouting.
Well you do know that counting rides for the Oakley One Wave Wonder are now being accepted. We’d love to see some footage of you charging Pipe like a raging bull. Reckon there’s a chance we might be getting an upload soon?
It sucks that we’re getting some really good waves and have no filmers here. But we’re hitting okes up and hassling randoms for footage. Hopefully we can gather some good stuff.
Lakka Matt, rad catching up. Go get some brother!
Shot okes. The Eddie is on call yet again for next week, it’s going to be insane. Some MASSIVE waves are on the horizon! Yew!