Matt Bromley: I was at Jaws, filming for my film “Over the Edge”, and that same swell that was huge out at Peahi was hitting Mav’s the next day. We surfed our brains out in Hawaii, then raced to the airport for the swell at Mav’s the following day. After 3 hours of sleep, we arrived at Mav’s. It was cold and scary looking with 15-20ft, brown slabs exploding on the ledge.
You got to be consistent, it’s not a one time thing, a lesson I learned when going back to Nazaré and Mavs for the 2nd time this past year. You have to be vulnerable and be prepared to put humility aside. Frank did it. Josh did it. Asking people for favours, it’s all most a necessity. The guys out there are eager to help within the Big Wave community when they’re able to see how badly you want it.
Going forward, ultimately that’s who I want to be. I want to eventually be that guy offering a helping hand, parting bits of knowledge that I’ve learned along the way. I got a long way to go but one day I hope to return the favour.