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July 28, 2010Part 26: Farewell Andy
Our shipmate of the past 4 months, Andy Carter, has gone back to California to face the real world and start a new life. He helped us sail shimmi from Panama to Tahiti, completing more than 4000 miles and all sorts of afkak. We will miss him dearly. He became like an older brother for Josh and Indie, and his departure has left a hole on board shimmi. If there is one thing we learned from Andy, its that it is possible to be a courteous and all-round great guy all the time. To live with a family of four, of which the kids are 1 and 4, is a hectic thing to expect from someone, but Andy did it with a smile and a helping hand. Add to this the longest blue water crossing on the planet from the Panama to Tahiti, all kinds of miff weather, in flight repair jobs and severe sleep deprivation … how can one put into words this experience that we all had together? Without him we would still be sitting in Panama. His evening meals are destined to become the stuff of legends (also his washing up hahaha).
But most of all Josh and Indie are already missing their big buddy. We are now anchored near an airport, and every time a plane flies over both Josh and Indie scramble to the window and Josh yells: “Here comes Andy!” We will miss you mate, go well and may all the right doors open for you in California. AU REVOIR and CIAO!!!!! We spent a long and expensive week in Papeete. The main thing we did was sort out shimmi’s electrics. The charger was not charging properly, the battery control panel was erratic, the wiring generally a mess. So we had a marine electrician guy help us. Three long days and a house bond later it was all sorted (we hope). I also did some work on the starboard engine, I had a bit of a fight with a leaky impeller pump, after a few gasket attempts I realized that it was the lipseal sitting on the shaft. Of which I have 3 spares! Every now and than something that you need is actually on board. The highlight of our days in Papeete were the 5-6pm happy hour beers at the local “Dinghy Bar”, followed by a pizza to share. Tahiti is as expensive as downtown Paris, so the yotties pack the bar during happy hour. We are planning on having another go at some Teahupoo barrels before the WCT arrives. Cant believe Jordy is no1. Wonder how he will do at Chopes? Hope he has his pigdog well trained. Its a tough wave to really surf well, only the ou’s who really know the wave get those really long barrels, and it really favours the wild cards with local knowledge who either live there or have done multiple Teahupoo trips. I surfed there with all sorts of pro’s, and many of the newcomer pros are nowhere compared to the old timers, particularly when its solid. You must know where you want to take off and you must hold your position. Its definitely a specialist wave, like Pipe. But I skeem we will probably duck just before the contest, as we need to be out of French Polynesia before our 3 month cruise permit expires. And there are quite a few stories going round of sick waves on Raiatea and Huahine, which are 100 miles away. July 18, 2010Five Minutes With The Champ – Jordy SmithCraig: Right Jordy, congratulations and all that. You’re busy, got places to see and people to do. Five minutes of your time. Five questions, one minute each. That cool? Jordy: Cool, go for it. Craig: OK. Excellent. Well done bru. We’re all very proud of you. In your acceptance speech you mentioned the JBU and the boys down at the bottom gulley cheering you on. How did this make you feel? Jordy: It’s always great to get support from the JBU. (Jeffrey’s Bay Underground, the local surf club) I have be coming here for many years and to be recognised and appreciated by the locals is awesome. It made me feel really special. Thanks guys. Craig: Does it make a difference having your family around? Jordy: For sure. We are a closely-knit family and it was really awesome to have them here with their ongoing support for this event. It’s also always great support from the extended family back home. Craig: That semi against Bede was pretty special. It shows that you can never give up until the siren goes. How did it make you feel? Jordy: I have always maintained that it’s never over until in the fat lady sings. I knew I could do it; it was just that the waves weren’t coming. I have experienced being in the same situation before when I won the ISA World Open games at Huntington Beach, but it was an amazing feeling to get the heat win in the dying seconds with the whole beach screaming for me! Craig: Number one in the world, first South African to win a world tour event since Shaun Tomson. Do you feel any added pressure, or is pressure still not a thing that really exists for you? Jordy: It’s a fantastic feeling to be number one and kinda achieving my set goals. There will still be a certain amount of pressure but it is all about learning how to deal with it, so I take it one heat at a time and use it to my advantage. I have seen Taj, Kelly and Mick all having to deal with this same scenario, so I guess I can also learn from them. Also, I am very proud to be South African today! Craig: Sean Holmes did well and cleared away some of the world tour contender riff-raff. You must be stoked for him as well. Jordy: Oh yeah. Super stoked for him. He is the best wildcard ever to have surfed this event. Not just this year but last year as well. He really showed that it doesn’t matter what age you are you can still do well. Stoked that the South Africans did well on their home turf. Thanks Sean, as you laid the way to me now being number 1 in the world. Craig: Cool, that’s five questions. Thanks. Enjoy the jol. Jordy: Cool no worries. Part 25: The storm breaks![]() Getting stuck into one of Moorea's rare east coast righthanders. Early morning after the storm broke. Finally we also had a chance to “just be tourists”. We cruised around the top of northern Moorea, checking out Cooks Bay, Opanohu Bay etc. Truly stunning, these deep bays indent the north coast of Moorea like the letter “W”. ![]() Google Earth view of North Eastern Moorea. Those northern passes really light up during the northern hemi winter. Josh and I swam with a whole school of Rays, they brush right up to you, obviously used to being fed. We were surprised how “soft” they were, rubbing up against us. Later on we sneaked into the ‘10 star million bucks per day’ Pearl Bay resort which was the first resort in Tahiti with “over water” bungalows. We spent most of the afternoon around the resort pool, drinking whiskey and coke from Chantal’s handbag. We were not going to pay $15 for a drink, hahaha! Now we are back on board, watching a golden sun sink into the horizon, the barbie is lit, steaks are marinated, Yeeeha. Managed to also sneak a few right barrels before the swell dissapeared. So all is well that ends well! July 14, 2010Billabong AuctionWith all proceeds going to the Supertubes Surfing Foundation, the annual Billabong Golf Day and Charity Auction is always going to go down well. It was a beautiful day for the golf, but when the Sun went down it was time for the fun and games of the auction. Gathered dignitaries included the likes of Cheron Kraak, Sal Masakela and Graeme Stapelberg amongst others, and as soon as dinner was over the auction started. Marius Roberts was the auctioneer and soon had the crowd eating out of his hand. There were 5 surfboards on auction (two of them were creased), the signed vests of the finalists from the 2009 Billabong Pro, a signed pair of Occy boardshorts from the 80’s, some incredible artwork and paintings from local artists Martin Bakker and Deon Lategan,and an Xcel wetsuit pack, amongst others. A few collectors had flown up from Cape Town to be present at the auction, amongst them Richard Brice. Last year Richard bought a board from Kelly Slater for R10,000, with all the money donated by Kelly to the Supertubes Foundation. Richard liked what he saw, but so did some local collectors. The prices started off slowly, and the boards didn’t get very high prices to be honest. The Occy boardshorts and the paintings picked up some great prices, and then the two signed vests from last year came up. After some fierce bidding it was down to Richard and Barry fighting it out, with Richard taking the vests for the princely sum of R15,000. Sal Masakela was in attendance, and was pretty stoked on the Metallica boardies. Only 5 such boardies in the world, and signed by the whole band. After another run of good bidding it was Sal who emerged the victor with the boardies as his spoils. Sal is going to be hanging out at the contest site and doing some of the webcasting, so if you see him go and say hello. This year there were a few less surfers around at the Golf Day than last year, but there was still enough attention to the auction to gather R100,000 for the Supertubes Foundation. A great effort for all involved. Once the final items had been auctioned off and the night was drawing to a close, the stalwarts headed over to the bar to get close to the wood and chat about the upcoming event. There is a very good swell coming, and there is a chance that the first few days could be all time Supers. If you’re in the area I’d suggest you find your way down to Supers for the early on Thursday morning. There could be some big barrels. July 12, 2010Part 24: No Nympho’s
Nothing like a storm to turn me into a homesick sailor. Weird being in this shallow lagoon, with duk waves crashing over the outer reef, causing a raging current to vent out the only keyhole behind us. The other force on shimmi is a 40 knot North Wester, coming over the hill and dumping onto our port side. But we are holding fast, our CQR anchor has finally dug itself nice and deep. Above us are the steep sides of Eastern Moreea Island. But this dramatic green backdrop is all but obscured by driving rain. Every now and then we see the lights of a car winding along the side of the cliff above us. Eish, this is miff.
So many friends of ours have told us how lucky we are to be doing what we are doing, living the life on our yacht in the tropics, crystal clear blue lagoons, naked nympho’s and perfect waves. Well, the truth is that I surf much less now than I ever did at home. Sure, there are spells when we have it good, like our recent innings down at Chopes. But the reality is so different to what is commonly perceived. The last year and half aboard this boat has been the biggest afkak that I have ever attempted. The 6 months basics that I did during my time in the Marines was a faarken piekniek compared to this. When Chantal and I started this mission we had no idea. No idea. Keeping an old 45ft Cat going across the biggest stretch of blue water on the planet has taxed us to our very limits. I read somewhere that the East German Gestapo (Stasi) used sleep deprivation as their main form of torture. More effective than any other physical torture. I fully agree. And seeing as I am in a kuk mood, I am going to be very un-buddhist and add up the number of surf sessions that I’ve had since leaving Fort Lauderdale 18 months ago. And I’ll be very surprised if it averages out to more than one surf per week. I mean for f’s sake, we spend most of our time just worrying about where we gonna anchor for the night, nevermind slipping off for a quick session. Most of the waves we have found are miles away from any good overnight anchorage….so what do you do once you’ve finished surfing such a wave and the sun is already down? You panic, that’s what. No getting in your cabbie and stopping at the pub on the way home. No. Its sorry for you with the boat. Cause you are gonna drift around outside the lagoon until morning, as its too dark to drive through the narrow pass at night. Halfway through the night the onshore will come up, trying its hardest to blow you ass first onto the reef. By the time dawn comes you will be stupidly tired. You will then drive through the pass, watching a few land based surfers paddle out. They will wonder why you not coming for a surf? And if you add two small boys to this demented recipe you can forget about dosing the whole day… Now if just you one of you okes say I don’t know how good I have it…Because its true, I love it. Never before have I appreciated a good surf more, and never before did I realize how lucky we are to do this one thing. The more you kuk, the better it tastes when it does happen. Innersection Saviour
Yet once in a while something really attracts my attention and gets me frothing. The first time I heard Nirvana’s Nevermind. The first time I saw Slater surf in real life. The day I saw a shark swimming towards me. These things freaked me out and got my brain whirring around. It happened again recently. After attending a few junior events around the country I was pretty much over it. Apart from a hand full of (that’s 5) surfers who were surfing really good within the constraints of a competition environment ie. Surfing for judges, there was very little out there that impressed me. A couple of surfers were giving it a go in free-surfing and in expression sessions, but no one was doing it for me. ![]() Brendon throwing down some new school into his compo surfing. Then a little birdie emailed me a link to a video clip of a lightie surfing – http://innersection.tv/video/129. Do yourself a favour and watch it, do Brendon and South Africa a favour and register on Innersection TV and vote for Brendon while you are at it. This is one of the raddest things to come from South Africa since, well, probably since Jordy. That Brendon did most of it himself is even more incredible. I was so blown away by it that I had to get hold of Brendon and quiz him immediately. What a marvelous little vid and well done! What made you decide to enter on Innersection? Did your mom really do all the filming? I see she got interviewed in Innersection as well. Where were most of the waves filmed? Where is that one sick double barrel? How has the voting been so far? Anything you want to tell the people who are going to vote? Perhaps a word or two on how to vote? (It’s a bit complicated) Did the video make you feel any more confident competing in the Mr Price Pro? (Brendon got a fifth.) Ok, well good luck on the voting. So head on over to http://innersection.tv/ click on sections and scroll down until you find Brendon’s section. Then vote how you see fit. Only three days of voting left! Channel IslandsIt’s not often that we dedicate space to a surf store in these desperate times, but we figured that the new Channel Islands store in Gateway deserves a proper introduction. While the rest of the surfshops apart from one or two continue to subsist as fashion outlets with shop assistants that don’t know their Dumpster Divers from their mini-mals, the Channel Islands shop is the real deal. So we went in to investigate. All images Kolesky/Nikon The man running the store is Stan Badger. It was time to speak to the man. Here is an interview with Badger where he talks about his new life and his responsibilities. Stanley. Good to see you being productive. What motivated opening a Channel Islands store in South Africa? Channel islands has been the leading board brand world wide for decades. When you speak to any South African surfers and ask them what board they would love to have in their quiver, their response is always, Channel Islands! We wanted to bring Channel Islands into S.A. to cater for surfers who are passionate about design and quality. The massive range of Channel What is your job? How did you get your job? I was reaching a point in my life where I realized that sitting on the beach in Seal Point and traveling on photo trips was not going to last forever. Its kind of a harsh realization. But I really wanted to start taking some responsibility and working towards a professional and successful future in the surfing industry. A mate of mine called me up and told me that the job was up for grabs and that I should put my C.V. forward as he thought that the job description was right up my alley. So I gave it some thought, applied, flew up to Durban for an interview and within a few days I was chosen for the position. I spent a week in Santa Barbara shadowing the marketing and sales guys, Hanging out with them and pretty much the whole factory crew, from shapers, glassers to even the guys that pack and ship the boxes day and night to try and get into their heads and understand the Channel Islands way of doing things, so I could bring it all back here and keep it as the same as possible. I was told that I would have to be taught a lot on the business side and as long as I was driven and willing to learn, figuring it all out would be easy. So I am very grateful that the investors believed in me. It’s kind of a new and different stoke to what I was used to and its fun exploring and learning about this new avenue in my life. How has the public reaction been? The response has been amazing! Every surfer that’s been into Channel Islands, Gateway, has been blown away by the feel and look of the boards, they are truly Channel Islands, from the shape to the immaculate finish. Surfers that have purchased boards from us are absolutely loving their Channel Islands and have already confirmed that they want to expand their quiver of Channel Islands soon. Then just the general public have had nothing but good things to say about the sleek and clean look of the Channel Islands store and Café 88 coffee shop. They are amazed at the shaping machine in the store concept. Where else can you grab a coffee, park off on a couch in the store and watch even your very own board being shaped right before your eyes? What has proven to be popular amongst the designs? Most definitely the “Dumpster Diver”. Designed by Dane Reynolds for 1/2 a foot to 5 ft. This board will change how you look at a small wave. We have sold heaps of these. Another favorite is the “Flyer” this has been C.I.’s best seller for 8 years. Taylor Knox was in the store a couple days ago and ordered 1 from us for JBay. He reckons this model goes nuts in anything, but small supers he reckons it will fly! How has the demand for the boards been on the whole? How’s Stanley’s water time been? Happy to be where you are? The future of Channel Islands in South Africa? Thanks Stan good luck with the shop. Stanley Badger – stanley.badger@cisurfboards.co.za> July 3, 2010Just One MoveA couple of years ago Kai Neville came to stay with me. It was a time prior to Modern Collective and prior to Jordy and the Rodeo Flip. There might have been a Passion Pop around, a couple of Air 360’s and some awesome moves here and there, but there wasn’t a crew flying through the air on every wave. Kai was filming some of the best Australian and South African junior surfers for a project for Australian Surfing Life, and he lucked into some good waves all the way from Durban down to Cape Town. I sat in one or two of his editing sessions. As the stoked young Australian surfers like Leigh Sedley, Clipper Kimmins and Micro Hall gathered around the Apple, Kai went through the footage. A massive Cave Rock bomb with three big turns – delete. Perfect four-foot New Pier and a nuggety goofy-footer doing about 5 hooks – delete. Q-Bay set with a solid hack and some massive cut-backs – gone. A big throwaway air with a back-of-wave landing – saved!. A grinding East London left backhand barrel air attempt – a keeper. The deleted waves were red-hot, easily good enough for the best South African video of the time, and Kai was deleting them without a care. The Australian groms were completely bummed. I was curious, and a bit concerned at the good stuff that was being dumped. “Just looking for the one move,” Kai mumbled to all of us in general. Kai might or might not have started a movement right then and there. Now that we come to contest season in South Africa we are going to be witness to a whole month and more of excellent surfing. Three contests back-to-back and a whole bunch of red-hot moves. Yet I fear that the South African surfers are lacking in one serious avenue – the one big move. Ricky had it a few years ago and got onto the World Tour with some wild big moves, and then he lost it. Jordy clearly has it, and there’s no one else. Without wishing to detract from brilliant surfers like Travis and Davey, there are very few people with the ‘One Big Move’ approach, and this will come through in the contest results this year. The years of old-school judging criteria and the ‘two big turns followed by two small turns approach gets you through a heat’ has had a toll on South African surfing, while the rest of the surfing world has leaped forward. There has been a revolution baby, and we weren’t included. Don’t misunderstand, we have incredible surfers and amazing talent, we have stylish surfers and we have closets full of legends, but we have almost no surfers who have the ideology of One Big Move in contest surfing, an even in free surfing. Surfers from other countries think it, they breathe it every time they take off on a wave. You can see it. They go big every time, and they fall a lot. Beyrick De Vries is giving it a real go at the moment, pulling off a big move here and there. Who else? Maybe one of the reasons is the right-hand point syndrome, with so many of our surfers groomed on perfect right hand pointbreaks from Scottburgh to Mossel Bay. These waves almost dictate a style of surfing that sees a surfer riding from take-off to finish without falling off. The waves are so good that you really don’t want to fall off. Compared to the hot bed of D-Bah peaks and other such quick beachbreak one-move locations world wide, many of our top surfers concentrate on down the line speed, smooth style, correct hand placements, and 10 half-turns in order to ride the wave all the way through. How do you recognise them? They rarely fall off. They never fall off. They ride pointbreaks and they whip it, but they never push it. They never wipe out. Anyone come to mind? Of course someone does…. Kai and Modern Collective captured some of the biggest moves in surfing, and turned progressive surfing on its head, much like Lairds’ millennium Wave at Teahupoo did on August 17, 2000. The difference is that when Laird rode that wave, and then cried in the channel, the rest of the world absorbed what they saw and went out to chase a similar wave or bigger. Big wave surfing leaped forward with Twiggy and Greg chasing and surfing every storm in the world, and Mark Matthews getting slabbed off his head. Laird spearheaded this revolution. But South Africans are off the radar when it comes to crazy turns and the one big move that is going to shock and blow minds. Australian Ryan Callinan won the Kustom Airstrike in Durban. Jacob Mellish won the Red Bull Air Show at the Oakley Pro Junior with a standard double-grab. Great as it was, it’s a stock-standard and safe air in real terms. There were no backside air reverse with layback indy grabs, no backside rodeo floaters, no spins and no full rotes. Our surfers haven’t made the progression to change their surfing, push it harder, and fall off 100 waves before they perfect a killer move. Instead they prefer to do a few cracks off the top and an inside floater, and hope for a high 6 or a 7. These scores will result in one thing – quarter final doldrums in small events. That’s besides Jordy, obviously, and Ricky. He also has the ability to do a crazy air in the final of a big event. He’s done them before. We’ve seen them. I’m calling them both for this season. July 2, 2010Part 23: The Homesick Sailor
There have been quite a few stories doing the rounds about what happens on the island of Moorea when the fairly rare SE swells hit. A few days ago I was surfing a reef pass near the capital of Tahiti, Papeete, and got chatting to one of the locals. He said that a SE swell was arriving on Saturday and that some mysto fabled right hander on Moorea should be all time. So we decided, have boat, must go.
![]() But there was another factor in the equation: Shit weather predicted for the weekend: Plenty squalls and strong winds. The Society islands lie far enough south (17 degrees), to be affected by the high latitude low pressures which move through sporadically during the southern hemi winter like our western cape cold fronts. During May to August these fronts cause crappy weather once every 10 days or so. So although we were keen to surf these rare waves, we were also hesitant to head out into the teeth of a low pressure system, giving up our secure anchorage near Papeete. But you cant make an omelette without breaking some eggs, so here we are. ![]() In the end we surfed some great waves, it was well overhead on the sets, a few bomb barrels came through, but about halfway into my session the storm hit. The kuk thing is that unlike driving up the N2, you cant just get into your car, turn on the wipers and head for a cozy camp fire. Nort. We had to get shimmi to a safe anchorage quickly and in my gut I knew that it was going to be a long night. We wound our way into a protected anchorage in a big shallow lagoon, called Nuarei Bay, which has to be one of the most beautiful ‘blue lagoon’ settings that we have seen. But there were no naked chicks frollicking in the shallows. Just duk black storm clouds building and ominous gusty winds. Soon the low pressure was on us. The barometer bottomed out. The wind was now howling and I realized too late that we will need a second anchor. It took me most of the afternoon to get the spare Danforth into the dingy and to try drop it behind shimmi, Chantal and I screaming at one another out of frustration and tension as we tried to pull shimmi’s ass in line with the current and wind. But in the end we lacked the strength to set it properly as the wind and current flowing out of the lagoon has shimmi dancing in circles, tripping up the anchor and moving all over the place as she alternately reacts to the current or the wind depending on which is the strongest. We had no choice but to let shimmi do her thing, swinging freely on the 50 pound CQR. So tonight we will pay for our sins, probably not much sleep and plenty of staring at the chart plotter. Coral heads are all around us, not much room to move, and the wind is howling in the rig. There are a bunch of lovely houses up on the hill, their cosy lights twinkling, how often don’t we wish for just one night on dry land. I tell you what, when we get home to SA we are going to appreciate our little house in the Overberg. And those fun ‘no worries’ Transkei pilgrimages where the worst that can happen is a flat tyre or wet matches. But dont get me wrong, we are enjoying what we are doing, but sometimes you just feel stuck. When you cruise on a yacht you basically take your home wherever you go, like a tortoise with its shell. And like the tortoise we can never really get rid of our shell either… A crazy wind squall slams Shimmi so hard up on the anchor that both Chantal and I nearly fall to the deck. At least that means that the anchor is holding. For now. I close my eyes, and my mind travels to a faraway place…to the brown hills of the Umdumbi valley…Nothing like a storm to make me homesick… |
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