 June 25, 2010
 Southern Moorea We been enjoying the great anchorages around south Tahiti, we’ve been here for almost a month now. Its a vibey area, with daily life revolving around the swell, the arrival of baguettes at the local cafe, a few boat jobs and a final sundowner. No empty beaches for us please. We have had enough uncrowded solitude on those long crossings to last a lifetime! But we are all rested and barrelled up and we are keen to do a bit of short range exploring.
Moorea, the island right next to Tahiti has 4 or 5 sw facing reef passes, including the navigable Avarapa Pass on the very south west corner of the island which has a ‘known’ wave with a village called Vairapa nearby (=fresh baguette). Further up the west coast there is another navigable pass called Matauvau and then two non-navigable passes (Avamotu and Taota). All looking very promising with plenty underground rumours of ridiculous waves on Moorea.
The other half of the society islands are called the Leewards, of which the main surf ones are Raiatea and Huahine. They too have insane surf, these islands are the same kind of formation as Tahiti and Moorea (mountainous, fringing coral reef, calm inner lagoon, REEF PASSES). But they are more than 100 nautical miles west, which means an overnight sail to get there, which will make it too far for us to get back for a second run at Teahupoo later on. We are still skeeming of going back to maybe watch the pros during the WCT…
 Avarapa
We now find ourselves anchored on the left side of the Avarapa Pass, southern Moorea at 17deg35.599S, 149deg775W, just inside a great right hander, paddling distance from the back of shimmi. We left Tahiti this morning and had a great broad reach over to Moorea, only 14 miles which we did in under 2 hrs. The lagoon here is not as well charted as the lagoon’s on Tahiti, so we had to drive around a bit, using our polariods to see where the reefs are. But we found a good place to drop the pick, in 10 m on sand, about 100 meters from the wave. Now that we have surfed Teahupoo, all other waves look a bit “mild”… This right hander is a fun wave with barrel sections, cutback sections etc, I had to go dust off my 6′0 four fin, and struggled to re-adjust to surfing a small right hander after the madness of Teahupoo’s crazy drops and insane pigdog barrels. This is the first right hander that we have surfed since leaving Galapagos 2 months and 4000 miles ago.
Josh and Indie are great, lovely snorkelling just off the back of the boat, Indie is now happy to doggy paddle on his own with water wings on. Josh, well he is a little fish. Moorea is a stunning island, its worthwhile to google earth it, Cook’s Bay in the north is famous. Great diving with rays, sharks and plenty of fish. Hopefully i can shoot something for the pot which does not have cigatuera poison.
 Entering Cook's Bay, Moorea
There is a fun left hander on the other side of Avarapa pass, Chantal is going to give that a go tomorrow. Lekka!
June 19, 2010
 
What can I say, we had a duk swell at Chopes. These pics tell a better story than the one I can write.
We met a very interesting lady here in South Tahiti, her name is Liz Clark (30!), she surfs, and she is sailing her own small keel boat called ‘Swell’ around the world, in a hunt for waves, by herself!!
Here is an extract from her blog http://www.swellvoyage.com/page/2/
 Liz Clark. She's hard core and she's a hottie!
…Nisha passed with only 30-35 knot winds, but right behind another depression was lining up. ‘Tropical Cyclone Oli’ was gaining size and heading east for French Polynesia quickly. Panic broke out among the sailors as time ticked away to prepare for this next storm. Other boats begged for the yard to take them out of the water, but there wasn’t time. I rushed around Swell, stripping off the mainsail and the jib, the spray dodger, the solar panels, jerry cans, and surfboards. I loaned out my anchors to other sailors and used all my heavy lines to tie Swell to anything strong.
The morning the cyclone arrived, my hands shook as I descended the ladder for the last time with a waterproof pack of my most important goods. The wind was already ripping over us from the north. It was predicted to get stronger all through the day and into the night. I glanced back at Swell—she looked like a spider, with her ‘rope legs’ tied in every direction. I sighed and walked away, knowing I’d done all that I could do. I would stay with my Italian friend, Simona and her son Franchesco, until it was safe to come back to her.
The wind grew stronger and from where we sat in the living room, I could see the top of Swell’s mast out the window, trembling among the others. All day I watched her mast. Soon the chaos began. The wind was up over 50 knots, gusting to 60. The sound alone was terrifying. Storm waves began to wash across the road. The power line tower fell in the neighbor’s yard. And Oli raged on relentlessly with a force I’d never known.
Before darkness fell, I ventured out to check Swell and have a look at the sea. Waves were already washing under her and I feared it could rip the supports out from underneath her. My heart pounded as I leaned against the wind, running quickly between things that could fall on me. Debris whipped and flew by through the air. I arrived at the jetty to see all the boats in the marina heeled over at 40 degrees with the force of the wind. The lagoon had risen nearly 3-4 feet and waves were washing over the jetty into the marina then sucking out at its mouth to become a standing wave and whirlpool at the entrance. I didn’t stay long. The gusts were getting stronger and I feared being hit by falling debris.
It got stronger into the night. It felt as if the whole island were trembling. I tossed and turned, unable to sleep, full of guilt that I was in a stable dry bed, while my friends out there being tossed and tormented on the sea. Never had I felt so grateful to be on land….
 Liz at Vairao. She charges. Respect.
 June 17, 2010
After a few days out to sea and scoring the best waves of his life, Bevan Newton Johnson realises that it is time for him to get down to some serious training if he hopes to win the Vintners Challenge for the second time. So it was down to a punishing regime of surfing, cardio and ciggies to get Bevan to lose some weight and become a lean, mean fighting machine.
 Bevan HT's © ALL ABOARD
After marathon sessions and non-stop sit-ups, push-ups, pull-ups, Bintangs and Gudangs, Bevan was now ready for the Vintners Challenge. We seriously hope that we can do a part three to this article in which a boat charter to the Mentawais turns Bevan into a champion.
 while my guitar gently weeps etc etc © ALL ABOARD So, been an Onrust surfer, did you have any scary experiences whilst surfing in the Mentawais?
Well, I’m really scared of reefs being a surfer who grew on beachies. I got dinged and scraped and bounced around a bit, but soon realised that it’s not nearly as bad as thought. I reckon I could have charged harder from the start.
Did you have any dramas on your trip?
Oh yes. My wife Ezanne dropping in on me, and getting tired of Bintangs. You don’t want to get tired of Bintangs because that’s all you’re going to be drinking for a long time. You also don’t want to be dropped in on by your wife. It can lead to all sorts of complications.
 Bevan and his biggest fan - his wife Ezanne © ALL ABOARD
Probably getting tendonitis in my shoulders for the first time in 16 years from all the surfing. That pain was the greatest feeling ever! I probably could have had three sessions on my last day, but I fully wimped out and only had one, as I was completely surfed out.
The worst moment of the trip?
Well I took one lekker top to bottom over the falls at BankVaults, which was pretty radical. I also strained my hamstring on a two-foot reo. I know, pretty lame.
When did you win the Vintners?
In 2008 BC.
Good surfing, luck, tactics, raw talent?
They call me Steady Eddie, well that’s what they call me to my face – who knows what they call me behind my back – but I attribute my victory to my equipment and a stringent diet of steak and red wine. It just gives you so much energy!
Are you planning on a comeback? Did this trip give you the confidence that you need to take it to another win?
I just handed my entry in with the competitive warning that I have just finished my two-week training camp in Mentawai’s with my surf coach, followed by the ‘polishing school’ of a weekend in Stilbaai with the same surf coach (who has now become my personal/performance/psycho coach, but unfortunately it does not include nutrition or financial coach, where I could really use some help). Now I am going to taper for 2 months with lots of Pinot Noir and duck confit.
 Twin Peaks © ALL ABOARD
I learned a couple of things from this trip.
Firstly, what great waves can be had elsewhere, and with just a little bit of research and organising through the right people you can score big time while the rest of the world is dossing,
and B, in SA we are incredibly lucky with the lack of crowds,
and 3, I am really not as good as I thought I was at this surfing thing.
 Bevan at Rifles © ALL ABOARD In retrospect, did you have the right boards? What were they?
I was sorted pretty much, with a 6′2″ Bomb, a 6′5″ Bitch and a 6′8″ Bitch. I would have liked a little longer board for 6-8ft BankVaults, you want to be able to get into that wave nice and early.
Are you going back? If so, what change would you make to the next trip or to your personal planning ?
Oh yes we will be going back. How can you not go back after the trip of a lifetime? I will try my hardest to get more used to reefs, lose weight, and get fit for the trip.
Good luck for the Vintners. You can do it.
Thanks. Today Vintners, tomorrow the world, then Slater.
June 14, 2010
Not everyone thinks of surfing when they think of red wine – the production and/or consumption thereof, but there is a very real link, particularly in the Overberg region. Perfect climate for growing grapes, and some excellent wave from The Strand to Gansbaai. There are a couple of sharks around this area, but these days they seem to be everywhere.
The winemakers of the region who surf have a once a year surf contest called The Vintners Challenge. It’s a big deal, and is a well-attended weekend event in the Stil Baai region, where some cut-throat surfing goes down, and some even more cut-throat drinking goes. down. So intense is it that the 2008 champion, Bevan Newton Johnson from the Newton Johnson wine farm in the Hemel en Aarde valley in Hermanus, went into immediate retirement after his win.
This year, after his one-year hiatus, Bevan has been coaxed back into play, and will be gunning for his second title on the 14 August. He has to prove that it wasn’t a fluke, that he didn’t poison any competitors, that his victory was deserved and as a result of his high performance attack.
Keen to prove himself, Bevan hooked up with a crew and headed over for a long and hard training session at one of the most intense and dreamy locations in the world, the Mentawai Islands.
We caught up with Bevan on his return, and before his Vintners event, to see where his head is at.
 The Location © All Aboard
ZZ: What were the dates of your trip?
BNJ: We went from 3 May to 19 May.
Was it your first time to the Mentawais?
Yes. I have been to Indonesia a few times before, but never to the Mentawais.
What were you expecting with regards to the waves?
Tropical, reefs, 3 to 6ft clean barrels with warm water.
 Mike Baleta at Bankvaults © All Aboard. What were you expecting with regards cabin life?
Small cabins, lots of rocking and loads of cabin fever.
How did these expectations pan out?
Fantastic, took awhile for it all to sink in, but once I took stock and realised that it is there in front of me to be had, I got in and surfed. I got to grips with the waves and charged, but it felt like it took me a little longer to surf the waves perfectly eg. to try and master a take-off into the barrel at HT’s or BankVaults.
 Cabin fever © All Aboard  Bevan showing some style at HT's © All Aboard How did you arrange the mission?
We booked through Chantal, and then we had Golla on the trip with us. He has skippered 70 charters in the area, so we knew we had the inside track to all the good waves haha.
Was your trip cheap, ok or expensive?
It was quite expensive.
You went with your wife, Ezanne. Was it hard to put the money down for the two of you to head off out to the islands?
Yip, it sure was, at the time.
 Gideon Malherbe, HT's © All Aboard  Golla, HT's © All Aboard How would you describe the waves you got?
Incredible. The water was clean and warm, and the waves were machine-like barrels. Three to four-foot HT’s is just like you’re in a dream, but it is reality…
Was it worth it?
Hell yes. Probably one of the best spends of my entire life…
Next…Part 2 and the reality of training for the Vintners Challenge begins for Bevan
June 6, 2010
Spent the day yesterday hunting down the Maisch’s for me new boards the movie peeps had me make up- two exactly the same models is definitely a first for us out in the Shire of Umzumbe…
Somehow two grains of sand got stuck in me eye surfing Indo in February-after four months in the tropics and some minor surgery last week not only my beard has started looking a little scarey…
 - hollywood look out!
Yeah i look more like a West coast crayfisherman then some hot surfee dude anyway lets hope the wardrobe peeps dont do too much of a double-take when they get a look at me- i’m checking into the Umhlanga Ridge Protea hotel this evening large and in charge- Wok’s also in the mix as well as Kai the big guy Linder so things can only get interesting…
Thanks to the Maisch family for allowing me to jump the queue- them little hobbits are champs i tell you- so i’ll try get some pics of us movie-starring out along the way- i honestly dont know where this is all leading but the script is actually pretty cool, my acting skills definitely never landed me this job i’ll say that much- thankfully i only have to speak a couple times- and snog a hot Danish model in between(SHOOP SHOOP!) Kai the big guy on the other hand better get ready to act! mwah ha ha…
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June 3, 2010
 This is a weekend pub scene, tahiti style: they tow that grass hut thing (which is the bar) to the sandbar...then its party time! Just pull in with your boat, and voila. Drunk driving is not really an issue. The lifestyle of the locals here on Tahiti is surreal. Their pozzies form a long chain, all along the edge of the lagoon, virtually around the whole island. Houses of all shapes and sizes are all on the water’s edge and almost every house has a slip or jetty with a speedboat tied up to it. Everyone just buzzes around on the water all day long, diving, fishing, paddling on their pirogue or whatever. Tahiti is truly a paradise, i can see why Paul Gauguin went nuts when he arrived here. Its a privilege to be on a yacht, which is the best way to appreciate the splendour of the place.
Its a pity that South Africa is so far from here, as it is the first location that I have seen which gives Indo a full run for its money. The waves are generally shorter but more powerful, more intense. Not better, just different. It does not have the architecture or vibe of Bali, and the barrels don’t go on forever, but believe me, you know when you’ve had one.  This left is called Vairao cause its near Vairao village, about 10kms from Chopes We were just up in the main port of Papeete for 2 days, doing some boat jobs, collecting our autopilot, dropping off our watermaker and doing a big grocery shop. Surfed a kiff reef pass right next to the Papeete Marina. Now we’re on our way back down to Teahupoo for a big 18 second swell in a few days, but a 25 knot SE nailed us on the head so we had to enter a lagoon (with a perfect reef pass) further north to wait it out. Hopefully the wind moderates tonight and we can do the remaining 2 hrs down to Teahupoo tomorrow morning. If not we will just stay here and surf the Maraa Pass which has a right hander like Bank Vaults on one side and a scary looking left on the other.
 The right hander at Maraa pass. Lekka duk wave.
As I mentioned before, the whole surf exploration thing here is a piece of piss. Look on the chart, locate the reef passes, AND GO. Watch the wind and swell charts and target the pass with right exposure to current conditions. Generally, if its a north facing pass, then go there Nov-March, if its south facing, then April-Oct. On Tahiti alone there are more than 35 reef passes, more that 25 of them have good waves. Its a no brainer.
 Dawn patrol somewhere near Teahupoo
Another weird thing is that i have yet to come across a surf charter boat. Sure there are some, but this kind of surf tourism does not go down happily with the local polynesians. Most of them look like Jonah Lomu, and covered in tribal tatoos. They have been super friendly, Polynesian hospitality is legendary, but i am glad i dont have a boat load of Mentawai punters on board. I would be stitching okes up and it wont be for reef cuts. Most of the traveling surfers here come in one’s and two’s and they stay with local families. So in this respect its very different to Indo which gets overrun by obnoxious Jaapies, Seppos, Feral Ozzies and Brazil Nuts.
Its expensive though, no such thing as a 1 dollar nasi goreng. But if you stay with the locals and cook your own chow its fully do-able. Make sure have one of the 100’s of local tinnies at your disposal, and you will have it made. Anyway, what does 18 seconds do at Chopes?
 18 seconds???
 Winter bliss
When the red-hot pokers bloom you know its deep Winter on the South coast- howling offshores and waves everywhere you look…Mat Bromley and Neil Zietsman stayed on a few days after the S.A masters and open champs for a couple days of ‘binge-surfing’ so much more fun then binge-drinking i guess and now this morning im happily wrapped up in blankets- stiff as a board i gota cruise to Durban today to fetch some fresh rubber and goodies from RVCA and DVS- stoked i need a day off!
 best backhand attack on the South coast hands down...
It was quite interesting watching the S.A champs at St.Mikes over the weekend- them ballies aren’t shy for a hussle hey- Gary Maisch got snaked three times by one Border mullet, and twice by another during his Grand Masters final- the Border ou’s are mad keen like rugby players in their support of their team mates it’s no wonder they cleaned up on the team event with Southern and Central KZN fighting for second- still, one wonders if it’s worth all the hussling- four old mates out in the line-up, twenty minutes of waves i almost would’ve preferred to sit and wait my turn like Gazo rather then hussle anyway- that’s contests i guess- and thats also exactly why i dont surf them anymore!!
 good for something- not contests...
Staying on contests the fool Mike Grendon of Scarbarbaria has been invited to the World Longboard champs in Hawaii in October- for those of you who don’t know Mike he is one of the funniest, craziest people alive- he also will ride a barn door if you ask him, mad skills I’ve seen Mike dominate the Crayfish Factory huge- on a kneeboard!?! anyway, good to see he’s amping and if you can support him in anyway by going to his fundraiser THE FOOL MOON PARTY at Barroca lounge, Solole in Cape Town on the 25th of June my favorite punkers Halfprice will be playing doors open at 8pm check out their Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/#!/event.php?eid=123506167682879
or search it: FOOL MOON PARTY Grendon is a champ, and your support will be greatly appreciated he is honestly in my opinion one of the greatest surfers of our era- the first one to pick up a camera and try make a surf film, and the first to do a lota other crazy things I’d rather not tell you anyway- go the FOOL! Rooting for ya buddy…
 there will be carnage!  Halfprice are gona be kickass!
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