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September 25, 2009

esCape Town

Saw the Jack Mantis band at Dizzy’s last night- sweet sounds and obvious debauchery its been flat for daze! SIK swell over Sunday Monday though- hope I end up surfing something semi-sane- plenty options then its off to be a baker in Worcester again and see if I’ve still got what it takes to bake a real loaf of bread- back in the working world after a pristine run of just surfing all year- so I really cant complain its as simple as that, time to conjure up some mula and burn it to Mozam for the early cyclone season…
Me and Rui-dog are doing security in Long street tonight at the Misfit store the Loerie awards are on so there should be all sorts of chaos to enjoy otherwise- batten down the hatches and enjoy the last swell of the Winter!

The working world is lurking

The working world is lurking

Styling sounds

Styling sounds

research

September 22, 2009

Frewmanchu

Filed under: Inside Eddie Insideeddie @ 4:21 pm
news

While there might be some people in our surfing universe who hog the limelight, who receive all the attention, or who get lavishly fawned over by drooling and sycophantic brain-dead media and industry kooks, there are others who keep it real. The kind of people behind the scenes who keep the surf industry ticking, who surf as hard as they work as hard as they play.

Mike Frew is one such guy who I had the pleasure of working alongside when he was at Atoll Media. Hard-working and passionate, he was always deeply involved in what he was doing, and played an active role in the success of the mags he worked for.

Nowadays Frewbru is still in the thick of things, fighting in the trenches of the surf industry. It has been a long time between drinks, so we decided it was time for a catch-up with one of the shortest guys in the SA surf scene.

So how does your career path go?

I started with ad sales for blunt magazine, then associate publisher of Zigzag surfing magazine, I was marketing manager for Lizzard International and now I’ve been appointed the KZN sales agent for Hurley.

I hear you’re never going to leave Durban, ever. Explain.

It’s not that I’ll never leave but there are certain elements that’ll make it very hard, so right now I’m pretty set. As a surfer the water is warm and we have some of the best waves in the world during winter (ask Twiggy, he’ll agree). I also love the fact that you have all the point breaks within easy access down the south coast and some tucked away secrets up north. From a business perspective it’s also booming with the area attracting some of the biggest investment in SA right now.

...never leaving Durban

...never leaving Durban

What is the best thing about being part of the surf industry in South Africa.

The industry is unique and is made up of people for whom work is an extension of their lifestyle, it’s like a big family that you’re part of. Although it’s not as big as other industries it sets trends and I draw a certain stoke just being part of that.

What’s the worst thing about being a surfer in 2009 and the future?

Not being able to do airs like Jordy! Competitively surfing needs a major shakeup, many contest are still being run the same way they were twenty years ago. However brands like Red Bull, O’Neill and Hurley are doing different things with formats, locations, prize money etc which makes it a lot more interesting and media friendly. The WQS has become stale in its current form, I’m also very interested to see if this new tour materialises.

What has been your finest hour while surfing?

Two things come to mind, which probably qualify. First scoring a perfect ten for a thick tube at 10ft St Mikes to win the SA Masters Champs and then surfing perfect G-Land during a month in Indo.

...somewhere on the North Coast... we could tell ya but then we'd have to kill ya

...somewhere on the North Coast... we could tell ya but then we'd have to kill ya

Can you remember your worst/most humbling wipe-out?

Definitely New Pier during a heaving cyclone swell, that place can give you a serious beating for a sand break! I snapped my board and got washed into the North Beach pier, sliced my leg and required a heap of stitches, it’s impossible to swim against that rip.

Thinking back on your career so far, do you have any regrets?

No regrets, I’ve worked with and met some awesome people and have had the opportunity to experience things very different from a ‘normal’ job.

What was the funniest moment while working for Atoll?

Heaps come to mind, a couple have to be the time Craig Sims called everyone into the office at 2am after a Metallica concert believing the place had been sabotaged (turns out someone had left a bathroom tap on and flooded the entire second floor), and then the way the Zigzag editorial crew used to sneak rum and cokes from 12pm on a Friday afternoon before strategy meetings was pretty funny.

... a few seconds later Mike fell, battled the rip, went thru the pier and hurt his leg quite badly....

... a few seconds later Mike fell, battled the rip, went thru the pier and hurt his leg quite badly....

You came upon a castle with a single tower, and in the tower there was a beautiful girl. She said that her name was Ulrika, and she had lovely hair and said that if you could help her escape from the tower you could ravage her forever, along with her friend Clarissa and her younger sister Matilda. She was also very wealthy and if you took care of her you would be very wealthy. So, you have a beautiful girl with lovely hair, who promises you endless sexual tryst opportunities with her, her sister and her friend, as well as untold wealth. Do you believe her and help her escape, or do you walk away? Why?

That’s quite tempting. Sounds like a rad castle, but in honesty I’d walk away, I’ve got an awesome wife who understands my lifestyle and lets me surf when I want and I’m already rich in that I’ve got two groms (Damien & Tristan) and good health. Those three chicks would definitely suit a single guy.

You think so? No ways. You don’t stand that tall. Do you have a board over 6’0?

True, I’m not always the tallest in the crowd but I’m not quite a hobbit. My normal boards are 5’10 but I got a couple from 6’8 to 7’6 for bigger days. I also got an original Safari single fin from the early seventies that’s a good deal over 6’0 and I have a 7’0 mini mal for the flat days.

What irritates you the most in the whole world?

Anything by Whitney Houston or Mariah Carey.

What is wrong with Whitney? I grew up with Whitney. She rocks.  If you had an opportunity to inflict severe bodily harm on your worst enemy and not get caught, would you do it?

I think we all have that streak in us but I’ve got too much of a conscience to act on it, love your neighbour ‘cause tomorrow he might not be your enemy.

He also might have a good-looking sister/mom/wife, so who knows? Who do you respect/look up to in the South African surf scene?

Honest people who’re true to their roots and beliefs like Paul van der Waal or Dave Jennings, those not in it for themselves, but for the good of surfing, like Robin de Kock and Craig Sims. I also really respect business leaders like Arthur Limbouris and Cheron Kraak who’ve put their lives into building SA’s surf industry to what it is today.

Good point. Finally, what about this ‘worm’ thing that we hear so much about, that always seems to happen at surf industry functions?

The worm is an original breakdance move that I’ve worked on. There’s a lot that has to align for me to bust it out, including the right crowd, music, time and drinks tab. It’s quite rare but people still report seeing it every now and again…..

How many rivers do we need to cross?

Filed under: Inside Eddie, Uncategorizedlanguage Insideeddie @ 11:18 am

Yo my yo what a two weeks it’s been since last update. I do not know where to start, all I can say is that it was one of the best missions I have ever done and it was great to have PJ along or should I say Vee Jay Singh from India. LOL!!!
The first leg of the mission was to go check out some lesser-known areas in Java. We caught the late night Lion Air flight to Jakarta and drove through the night to reach our base camp. On arrival we arranged motorbikes and hit the road armed with adventurous spirit and some vague info on the locations of the setups. We located several spots and also saw potential for many more. All in all we had some great waves and have the reccy trip under the belt for future excursions out this way that will be on the cards as there are some world class heaving barrels out there and it’s still quite low key. I could write an essay on the experience, the locals, scenery and setups we came across were epic, not to mention the several hundred kilos we did on our bike in those few days.

The next little excursions were very spontaneous. We had friends sending sms updates on what the swell and wind conditions were doing every few days. The upcoming swell forecast looked insane, actually looked like the best swell run of the season. So after hectic sms sessions I arranged that Vee-jay and myself hooked up with another friend back in Jakarta and we headed directly to an island off the coast of West Java. We spent the entire swell gorging ourselves on some of the most perfect and gnarly waves I have had the pleasure of surfing and the memories from some of those sessions will be scarred onto my memory bank for life. Again I could write so much more but I will leave that to the images to tell you the story. All I can say is that this will not be the last time I come back and surf the spot around this island.

I am back in base camp Bali now getting ready for another mission back to the mysto spots in Java, however there is a spanner in the works and we could not leave today so hopefully this next mission will take off in the next day or two
Till my next ramble hope you all are scoring some SA cookers!
Laters

Jerome

Empty Setup and some fun ones

Empty Setup and some fun ones

Yes me and Vejay-Singh stop to take in some scenery

Yes me and Vejay-Singh stop to take in some scenery

Gnarly but perfect

Gnarly but perfect

Good times Great waves and great crew

Good times Great waves and great crew

Spanish Mackrel we snagged

Spanish Mackrel we snagged

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September 18, 2009

Catching up with bigwave mullet Jem Johnson

Filed under: Inside Eddie, Uncategorized — Tags: Insideeddie @ 10:39 amsite-map
How glassy is that runway?

How glassy is that runway?

Jem loving life last Winter

Jem loving life last Winter at Waimea bay

Watching and waiting...
Watching and waiting…

Over the last few years a new crop of chargers have entered the bigwave fray in South Africa- Hout bay and Llandudno local Jem Johnson is fully committed to charging as many swells as he can here in the Cape(and there are plenty!)
I caught up with Jem to discuss Hawaii, Mavericks and the future…
Roosta: Jem, you’re third generation Llandudno family of watermen who pioneered the surf/lifesaving culture- do you think this ‘heritage’ has inspired you to follow the path of a dedicated big-wave rider…
Jem: Yes definitely, my grandfather “ginger” Townley Johnson and John Whitmore first built a little place on Llandudno
beach known as the “shack” which my grandfather later donated to the livesavers and is now the livesaving club house, so ever since i can remember i have been on the beach in the water surfing, diving, fishing, sailing ect.. Being in the ocean is all i have really ever known so i guess for me big wave surfing was a natural progression, plus i am someone that always wants to push myself and be the best i can be and i feel big wave surfing is the ultimate challenge in the ocean.
Roosta: You going to Mavericks again this Winter what are your plans/intentions whilst there…
Jem:yes I plan on goin to Mav’s on the 1st of December.Ii am really excited about it especially because theres gona be a big SA crew there this year. Simon Lowe, Twig, A.Marr, Bertish, James Taylor, Mike Schlebach, me and Franky Solomon- that i know about! I spent alot of time cruising with Greg Long this year and in one of our conversations it came up that they have banned jetskis for all but 2 months of the year, so i said to him half jokingly me and Stu(Bradburn) will come over and do the water safety, but we all know that water safety is a very serious element of big wave surfing and Greg being Greg is all over it already… i got a mail from him the other day saying he is organising some pencil ducks over there and asked me if i wouldnt mind showing the guys there how to drive them, this will help us all at the end of the day and for some one like me that learns so much from people like Twig and Greg it will be nice to give someting back!
roosta: Who inspires you the most out of the Dungeons crew?
Jem::I would have to say different people for different reasons, Twig and Greg because at the end of the day they are the best! Andrew Marr because theres a special feeling you get surfing with a guy like that just pure love and respect for the sport and for the ocean, how it should be! then guys like James, Mike and Chris- theyre like spartans who dont feel a thing haha, and then to have Simon and Mickey(Duffus) they are 20 years older than me and charging as hard as anyone out there thats pretty inspiring i think.
roosta: Any advice for training aspirant big-wave riders out there…
Jem:for me there is nothing worse than having a big heavy swell and knowing you are not as ready as you could be for it, so i try training and preparing my self as much as possible with things like mountain biking, diving, trail running,yoga ect..but most important just surfing! we have all just started some “Taylor Made” haha, Apnea swimming training in a pool once a week, really cool.Thanx James- my advice for anyone starting would be start off small and progress slowly-build your confidence and you will start getting bigger and bigger waves, most important learn from those around you and show respect!
roosta:You had a sik season in Hawaii last year now Mav’s what are your plans there after?
Jem::I did my first season on the North shore earlier this year and was lucky enough to stay with Andrew Marr in Waimea bay. Surfing waimea was always a dream of mine and to surf it with A.Marr really made it special! the guys a legend there, to a lot of people i was simply known as Andrew’s friend it was realy cool! I also know alot of the Hawaii guys from them comin to the Red Bull Big Wave Africa event. In Hawaii I spent alot of time going spearfishing with  Hark Healy on his ski, the guys a complete mullet! another mate Jamie Sterling took me to yoga and showed me around a bit which was also really cool. For the future i would really like there to be a big wave world tour and to be part of that, but for now with our Winter ending i must just concentrate on getting myself ready for Mavericks thats the most important thing for me now!
roosta: What do you reckon about all the ‘fresh’ traffic in the line-up at Dungeons these days- do you think anyone should be allowed to just go out there and give it a go regardless of skills/experience..?
Jem: i think for the right people its a good thing but for most people its definitely a very bad thing, i am still very young and finding my own place out there so im probably not the best person to ask, but its a free country and people can do what they want i guess, for me i must worry about my self and my friends out there.At dungeons you learn something new every surf and Dungeons her self will sort the wrong people out very very quickly as we all know!
-ahoy- bru shot…

research

September 15, 2009

Dungeons again

Filed under: Inside Eddie, Uncategorized Insideeddie @ 11:13 am
news
Um uh...

Um uh...

Eish look at those shooters!

Eish look at those shooters!

Rui-dog n me

Rui-dog n me

Just wrote a whole speel on whats been going down after three weeks on the road and the computer freaked out on me! argh- anyway it went something like this- got back to Cape Town late evening and bumped straight into bigwave mullet and unfortunately my neighbour Jem Johnson- first thing he says:”You coming to Dungeons tomorrow morning?” A question that can only really have one answer! Anyway long story short next morning im cruising out Hout bay harbour on Steve Benjamin’s sweet new boat…caught a couple shoulders- Jem and Simon Lowe both got bombs and A.Marr was just styling and smiling the bombs from way out the back- such good atmosphere out there- swapping stories between sets it felt like we were riding some random beachy! Meanwhile- down the peninsula Liam “yeti” Wood was getting walloped at the factory so hard his ribs cracked the bigman couldnt fit his frame in the car he was in such pain he had to get a ride with Barry Futter who no doubt made him laugh and suffer the whole way home- shame!
Waiting on the call for my next two months in Indo- in the meanwhile the Cape in Spring aint a bad place to be- cold fronts are lining up still-check the pics of me and my quiver- super stoked- and making a gat of myself tryna play a gig in St.Francis…i cant remember anything i guess i know now beer and tequila can help with the nerves- but they dont help you remember how to play guitar and sing!!! i think i lasted 10 minutes then ran way…had so much fun on the road with my gal Saa and Rui-dog i wish it would never end! well you know what they say- ‘Journey’s over- journey never began…’

September 12, 2009

BrokenMojo

Filed under: Inside Eddie, Uncategorized — Tags: language Insideeddie @ 1:43 pm

Surfed fun Supers during the rugby this morning- not nearly as uncrowded as i thought it would be with more international surfers then South Africans! i feel its definitely time to end this infatuation of mine with Supertubes for a while and head back to the Cape…
Broke my swell mojo at last I’ve had more then my fill… back in rhythm with the ocean after losing it completely running away from the Dungeons almost three weeks ago…
This morning there still waves and I have to say its lovely to see a few empty one’s reel by with only two guys out on the dawny- I’m so broken from yesterday’s binge of bendy three to five footers I’ll get it together for a sesh again somewhere later…
The one board I got outa three from the Maisch’s is insane- a 5’8 Disco biscuit 5-fin fang it model I call it the apple fizz pop tiger check the pics- ah fresh foam-I love new boards- picking up the other two tomorrow from Port Elizabeth- hope they make it otherwise its another crazy weekend in Seals ahead- The Fullstop is having its grand re-opening with Jannie and Baksteen playing live- sounds bad but if you hear them its that good old reggae dancehall sound you thought wasn’t around anymore- it’s also a party I cant avoid as im staying in one of the flats adjoining the bar- haibo! Otherwise news from the village- Stan Badger has tick bite fever- or Babalaria- shame he’s a wily cat though- off soon to commentate the SA Junior champs then Indo for a photo-trip to Java with me, Simon Fish and Sean Payne with AVG shooting. We gona have two weeks in Bali together as well uh-oh!
Otherwise The Hillbilly Michael Hill made the quarters of the Oxbow world longboarding champs in Costa Rica recently- following the family legacy he will be competing on the World tour next year in Oz and Europe- stoked for him- but not half as stoked as his lady Stace who will be going with for the ride…
The Non-violent Fisherman(minus one member) had their debut gig at the Rock Bottom pub and restaurant last weekend- Peculiar Craig Sinclair delivered a wild set- there was even blood on stage when I got carried away with my guitar and bust him one in the gum needless to say we had the crowd roaring- well all ten of our friends who we dragged along for the ride- playing live- music is a rush I think I could really get into it for now its all surfing…

Shame yesterday Craig Mackay- the Jbay -Slater- alike broke one of his vertebrae doing the splits on a floater at Supers, apparently he’s in surgery this morning in P.E- heavy dub man and speedy recoveries…

Swell’s looking solid for the morning but more southerlies later so it’ll have to be a morning binge and hopefully some more mellow crowd action-shot for checking my chirp- until then then…

Badge(pre-tickbite) me, Hillbilly and Spacey rocking out the Fully

Badge(pre-tickbite) me, Hillbilly and Spacey rocking out the Fully

[caption id="attachment_409" align="alignnone" width="225" caption="The Disco Biscuit"]The Disco Biscuit[/caption]
Its all about Rui

Its all about Rui

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September 10, 2009

Going Big with Greg Long

Filed under: Inside Eddie Insideeddie @ 6:12 amsite-map

Going Big with Greg Long.

Greg Long has a rep of catching some big waves, and quite a few of them are off the South African coastline. He hooked into some of the good sessions this year at Dungeons, and has been chasing the storms around the world. We thought it would be kind of cool to get hold of him and ask him a whack of questions – some legit and some corny. He came back with some gold.

How big is you memory?

It’s important to remember and learn from your past, but always live in the present. There is a lesson to be learned from every life experience or mistake you might have made. They are what have made you who you are today.

Biggest wave?

70ft + at Cortes Bank January 5th 2008. Craziest session of my life, with Twiggy, Parsons and Gerlach. Unfortunately our biggest waves that day except for Parsons’ went undocumented.

Biggest board?

10’ shaped by Chris Christenson. It is only for the biggest days at Todos Santos and hopefully Cortes Bank sometime soon…

Appetite?

Pretty big. Love to cook and love to eat. Mexican food is the best with Thai food coming in a close second.

How big is your bank account?

It’s always in flux. Last minute traveling with all our equipment is not cheap. Most of what we make will go right back into the endeavor of chasing swells around the globe. I surf big waves because I love the challenge of being in the ocean when it is at its wildest states, and attempting to harness and ride that energy. If I wanted a large bank account I would have become a doctor or a lawyer. But I guarantee I would have never seen so many amazing places, met the incredible people, and surfed the unbelievable waves that I have. The lifestyle that we live is priceless.

Religion?

“The Art of Happiness” by HH Dalai Lama.

Library?

Anything by Kerouac, Hemmingway, Coelho, Krakauer, Redfield, Dan Millman, Tom Robbins, H.H. Dalai Lama and so many more. I have a good collection of books at home but tend to pass a lot of good ones on to friends.

Ipod?

Love all genres of music…Classical, Jazz, Blues, Rock n Roll, Country. Variety is the spice of life.

How big is your hunger for success?

I am always trying to improve and better myself in all aspects of life. I gauge my success in happiness rather than materialistic possessions or accolades. I love challenges and will always be successful knowing that I did the very best I could, no matter the outcome.

Biggest barrel RBBWA 2008

Biggest barrel RBBWA 2008

Biggest wipe-out?

Mavericks November 30, 2008. Buoys were 13ft at 25seconds. Swell was the thickest and heaviest I have ever seen there. Waited an hour for my first wave, a solid 20fter. Made the drop but got mowed at the bottom and pushed straight down into the reef. The beating was so violent that I couldn’t get to my nose to equalize the pressure. I bounced along the bottom till I went over the shelf and into the abyss and ruptured my eardrum from the pressure. Instantly lost my equilibrium and all sense of direction. Had to climb my leash in order to find which way was up. I made it about half way to the surface before the second wave rolled over me and pushed be back down. I climbed my leash a second time to find my way to the surface. When I came up, the entire world was spinning in circles and I couldn’t get my head above water to get a real breath. There is video of myself trying to swim sideways, and back down when I finally did break the surface. That was a result of the vertigo I was experiencing. At that point I was only a few meters away from the massive rock field on the inside. Rather than being horizontal as you would normally see it, it was vertical. I remember thinking to myself, “Now how the fuck am I supposed to navigate my way through this one?” It was then, that Jeff Clark made a second pass on a ski and saved my ass big time. Had my leash broken on that wipeout, I don’t know if I would be here today. Hands down worst and scariest wipeout of my life! I learned a lot of invaluable lessons from that one.

Who is the biggest fool in the world?

I am certain that George W. Bush takes the cake for this one. No need for explanation here.

Who is the biggest legend?

All the big wave surfing pioneers of the past, and anybody who is out there following their dream or passion.

Thanks bru keep charging.

No worries.

research

September 4, 2009

Surfs tiny here in Cali…

Filed under: Inside Eddie, Uncategorized Insideeddie @ 6:59 am
news

Surfs tiny here in Cali still, still bloody hot too. I reckon summer is getting later all over the world, seasons are changing , storms are bigger, global warming, not a good thing at all…. But there’s a hurricane off Mexico right now that might push a little pulse into the California vicinity , hope so cause you can only be so amped for 1 ft surf for a little bit….

Kinda funny story, not really though but anyway, early on in the year, I did a shoot for Oakley, eyewear/apparel shoot down in Melbourne for Oakley South Pacific for their Sunglass Hut campaign, shoot went fine, well I think they were happy with it. So I’m in Oz just a little while back,about a month ago, I land in Sydney and transfer to the domestic, get through security and hit the escalator down to the shop and gate area when I check this Sunglass Hut with my ad in the front window and next to it on another wall, a full ground to ceiling shot again. Firstly, was not expecting that at all and then I started to feel a little embarrassed cause you’re looking at yourself on the wall. Not that any one noticed me to the campaign when I walked past but it was a pretty cool surprise. I’ve added a photo from one of the Sunglass Huts with it in it, (NO, i did not take it myself, Oakley Oz sent it through to me).

Well enough stories. Hoping the swell goes up, temperatures goes down and I keep having fun… Keep rockin where ever you are, make every moment count and appreciate what you got!

Peace out

Davey

image001

Orange Juice is a Calling

Filed under: Inside Eddie, Uncategorizedlanguage Insideeddie @ 3:14 am

Howsit going everyone? It’s been a while since my last blog update but the adventures have not stopped.
First of all I would like to thanks Brandon at Zig Zag for the invite to the Zag Blogroll. I would like to invite you readers to visit my blog on jeromemosetic.wordpress.com to read all previous entries, as I have been blogging for a few months. I am stoked to get more readership as I have been getting good feedback from friends and family who get to check my updates out.

I had an epic time at Lagundri Bay in Nias, and over the course of 18 days we had a whole array of cracking surf to keep us S.A boys stoked and relaxed.
In the last week and half my brother has headed back home and so has Shaun and Jaco. I really enjoyed surfing; shooting and hanging out with them all and hope to have more adventures in S.A, Indo and beyond.
Since been back on Bali I have been itching to keep chasing surf on other islands, as the crowds are a lot more manageable. And the adventures are always keep you on your toes. The first little adventure was a trip back to G-Land for a few days. I decided on a three-day stay at the Jungle Camp. I went for the fast boat option and lo and behold as it always happens the Indo curveball comes flying at ya……. one of the three outboard motors decides to have a mechanical failure around just over the half way mark, so from the boat cruising nicely at around 25knots we spend the remaining extra time puttering along at perfect trolling speed of around 8 knots. When we finally arrive I am glad to be there but the surf looks around 4 feet max. and dwindles to barely ride able on my last day, however I am just glad to be there out in the jungle relaxing and getting a few mellow ones with the frothing packs of Brazo’s. I also happened to meet with Will Bendix and his friends so that was also cool and random. And of course great seeing old buddy Chris and his chick Robin who were out at Bobby’s camp doing it in style!

I am now in preparation for my next excursion. Tonight I will be flying to Java and going on an altogether new adventure to seek out a few spots in lesser known/surfed area which I am really looking forward to checking out. The swell charts are looking promising and I have another S.A bru onboard by the name of PJ. We will spend some time checking out the area and hopefully score some surf and adventures and of course the Indo curveball will be expected to come whizzing past us sooner or later

I will update again after this next mission and when the new one takes shape

Hope you are all well and keeping the dream alive!

Laters

Jerome

Here I am on a fun one

Here I am on a fun one


Here I seek out the dream at Lagundri Bay on a funky day

Here I seek out the dream at Lagundri Bay on a funky day

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