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September 18, 2009Catching up with bigwave mullet Jem JohnsonOver the last few years a new crop of chargers have entered the bigwave fray in South Africa- Hout bay and Llandudno local Jem Johnson is fully committed to charging as many swells as he can here in the Cape(and there are plenty!) I caught up with Jem to discuss Hawaii, Mavericks and the future… Roosta: Jem, you’re third generation Llandudno family of watermen who pioneered the surf/lifesaving culture- do you think this ‘heritage’ has inspired you to follow the path of a dedicated big-wave rider… Jem: Yes definitely, my grandfather “ginger” Townley Johnson and John Whitmore first built a little place on Llandudno beach known as the “shack” which my grandfather later donated to the livesavers and is now the livesaving club house, so ever since i can remember i have been on the beach in the water surfing, diving, fishing, sailing ect.. Being in the ocean is all i have really ever known so i guess for me big wave surfing was a natural progression, plus i am someone that always wants to push myself and be the best i can be and i feel big wave surfing is the ultimate challenge in the ocean. Roosta: You going to Mavericks again this Winter what are your plans/intentions whilst there… Jem:yes I plan on goin to Mav’s on the 1st of December.Ii am really excited about it especially because theres gona be a big SA crew there this year. Simon Lowe, Twig, A.Marr, Bertish, James Taylor, Mike Schlebach, me and Franky Solomon- that i know about! I spent alot of time cruising with Greg Long this year and in one of our conversations it came up that they have banned jetskis for all but 2 months of the year, so i said to him half jokingly me and Stu(Bradburn) will come over and do the water safety, but we all know that water safety is a very serious element of big wave surfing and Greg being Greg is all over it already… i got a mail from him the other day saying he is organising some pencil ducks over there and asked me if i wouldnt mind showing the guys there how to drive them, this will help us all at the end of the day and for some one like me that learns so much from people like Twig and Greg it will be nice to give someting back! roosta: Who inspires you the most out of the Dungeons crew? Jem::I would have to say different people for different reasons, Twig and Greg because at the end of the day they are the best! Andrew Marr because theres a special feeling you get surfing with a guy like that just pure love and respect for the sport and for the ocean, how it should be! then guys like James, Mike and Chris- theyre like spartans who dont feel a thing haha, and then to have Simon and Mickey(Duffus) they are 20 years older than me and charging as hard as anyone out there thats pretty inspiring i think. roosta: Any advice for training aspirant big-wave riders out there… Jem:for me there is nothing worse than having a big heavy swell and knowing you are not as ready as you could be for it, so i try training and preparing my self as much as possible with things like mountain biking, diving, trail running,yoga ect..but most important just surfing! we have all just started some “Taylor Made” haha, Apnea swimming training in a pool once a week, really cool.Thanx James- my advice for anyone starting would be start off small and progress slowly-build your confidence and you will start getting bigger and bigger waves, most important learn from those around you and show respect! roosta:You had a sik season in Hawaii last year now Mav’s what are your plans there after? Jem::I did my first season on the North shore earlier this year and was lucky enough to stay with Andrew Marr in Waimea bay. Surfing waimea was always a dream of mine and to surf it with A.Marr really made it special! the guys a legend there, to a lot of people i was simply known as Andrew’s friend it was realy cool! I also know alot of the Hawaii guys from them comin to the Red Bull Big Wave Africa event. In Hawaii I spent alot of time going spearfishing with Hark Healy on his ski, the guys a complete mullet! another mate Jamie Sterling took me to yoga and showed me around a bit which was also really cool. For the future i would really like there to be a big wave world tour and to be part of that, but for now with our Winter ending i must just concentrate on getting myself ready for Mavericks thats the most important thing for me now! roosta: What do you reckon about all the ‘fresh’ traffic in the line-up at Dungeons these days- do you think anyone should be allowed to just go out there and give it a go regardless of skills/experience..? Jem: i think for the right people its a good thing but for most people its definitely a very bad thing, i am still very young and finding my own place out there so im probably not the best person to ask, but its a free country and people can do what they want i guess, for me i must worry about my self and my friends out there.At dungeons you learn something new every surf and Dungeons her self will sort the wrong people out very very quickly as we all know! -ahoy- bru shot… 2 Comments »RSS feed for comments on this post. TrackBack URL Leave a comment |
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Nice one Jem, and kief work there Roosta. Lekker to check the ous representing.
Comment by Craig Ritchie — September 18, 2009 @ 10:56 am
[...] Check out this great article written by Roosta here [...]
Pingback by Dungeons breaks again | Animal Ocean — May 8, 2010 @ 10:05 pm