Slummies - Backyard Diaries Day 3

We managed to get up earlier this morning thanks to the early bedtime the night before. By sunrise we were down at the reef which we thought would be cranking. And it was, except it wasn't exactly easy. It was a little bit too big for the ledge with sets closing out or running wide into the channel, causing guys hearts to race when they were caught inside - which was often. However in-between all the closeouts and wide waves, a few waves would bend just right onto the reef and throw square, wide barrels. Don't let the photos fool you, it wasn't by any means a perfect session, the boys took their lickings but also deserved the rewards they got.
 
Devyn Mattheys, is a total nutcase... he waits for the meanest, heaviest waves that come through, he doesn't think twice, just paddles and goes. He took quite a few beatings on the closeouts, but also found some of the better bigger tubes on offer. Greg Emslie found deep pits but what impressed the guys the most was the beating Greg and Devyn took side-by-side while trying to paddle back out. Devyn later said that it felt like he was getting hit by a train.

Dale Staples was cruising through town on his way back from the Kei with his dad and joined the crew today. Dale will hopefully stay untill the weekend. He may be a junior but has the heart of a charger. Despite the making conditions at the ledge Dale managed to pick off some below sea-level double up pits to impress the team.
 
The crew came in after that session, a little bruised and broken, but smiling... Later that day the crew headed off to meet Women’s World tour campaigner, Rosy Hodge, and take a look at the point in her backyard. It was looking really fun, with the east backing off a little and leaving smooth faces.
Royden went absolutely berserk on his backhand, he was surfing better than I have seen him surf the whole trip. Smacking it so late and critically. Greg found a couple of bombs which he shredded but also face-planted so hard on one wave – (watch Day Three’s video). Frankie was suffering a little with a cut foot, but still managed some solid turns with Davey and Dale Staples looking fast and loose on their forehand.
 
After that session the boys and girl were done for the day, surfed out and tired. The quiet ride home to photographer, Louis, pad and the guys are bouncing a few beers and talking nonsense about the days exploits.

Looks like east winds predicted for tomorrow, but let's wake up and see what dawn brings. SHWEET!!!!