Josh Redman is one of the most versatile surfers out there. He's won air shows, smashes the solid stuff and charges big waves like a seasoned maniac. This year he's made two huge statements. The first was his ongoing performance at some of the heaviest locations on our coast, asserting himself as one of the core big wave surfers to watch out for. The second was his massive beard, which grew to a density that put fair-haired beards back on the map. Currently in the northern hemisphere chasing the Endless Winter, Josh is waiting for the mighty Mavericks to come to life before he heads to Hawaii for the late season. If the waves come to the party, you can be sure Josh will be there giving it horns. We dropped in on JR to talk about his year:
Zigzag: Ahoy JR, it's been a busy year for you bru. Any highlights from 2011?
Josh Redman: Ja, this year has been fun, and there were* a few special sessions for me. There where two days out at Sunset in Kommetjie that would have to stand out just because I felt in a rhythm, finding ins on some fun drops. I came out of those sessions in such a rush, and there is always such a good vibe in the water between the guys when it's big, which makes it that much better. But on top of that, I would have to say the best surf of my life went down this year at Skeleton Bay, surfing the longest barrels of my life with my brother, Dave Richards, Wes Grey and a few others. I'll never forget that trip
You've been charging the big stuff since you were a young buck. What makes you amped to put your body on the line?
I suppose for every surfer who rides bigger waves, they do it for the enjoyment of it. I love the big drops, the speed, the crapping myself, and enjoy the odd beating to a certain extent too. With regards to training, I go through stages where I get on the training trip, but I'm actually pretty useless and slip out of it too often. At the moment I reckon I'm doing alright and feeling fit.
Summer isn't a great time to be a big wave charger in SA...
I'm not letting the summer get to me. I'm in San Francisco at the moment with Frank Solomon, chasing winter. He spends a few months here every year gaining experience at Mavericks and surfing a lot of fun waves around the area. I came here to try get a surf in at Mavs before heading over to Hawaii for the late season where I'm going to spend a couple months. We paddled out at Mavs the other day, but it wasn't very big. Was cool to see the break though, and get a taste of the power out there - it's crazy how much power it has, and I'm a bit worried about when it does get big!
We're sure you'll do just fine out there. Anyways, San Fran can be a crazy place, have you and Frank been jolling and getting late night tattoos in Haight and Ashbury?
Haha, nah no tattoos yet hey, but we have visited Haight street and the place is amazing. There are so many whacked people there it's hilarious. First time here though, and having a good time. Frank and I have been having some fun waves, the people are cool here and there's a lot of good food. A bit of training has been going down, mainly just making sure we get in the water everyday and keep in the rhythm.
And the vibe in Northern Cali, any gnarly locals?
The vibes been good, there are crowds around but you can always find your own peak somewhere, and most of the locals I've surfed with here have been cool. You obviously get guys everywhere that have something to prove in the water, and you can usually spot those guys and just avoid them. But so far so good!
Let's talk beards – You grew a monster a short while ago. Is there product in there to bulk it out?
My beard was so feral and it was all natural, I must just have some strong facial hair genes. Three Months of growth left me looking like a bit of a hobo, which was funny for a while, but the novelty wore off.
We understand that you're a master chef. Any plans for a Josh Redman establishment opening up in Hout Bay one day?
Sheez, I dont know about that masterchef claim. I studied cooking in 2009 and I still really enjoy cooking, but for now I'm focused on my surfing and there seriously isn't enough time for the both. When the time comes, it's going to happen in Umdloti in Durban or somewhere along our Durban coastline.
Anything on the cards for 2012 after the late season Hawaii stint?
I don't know exactly where 2012 is going to take me, but I'm going to carry on doing what I've been doing, which is making sure I do whatever I got to do to get shacked!
Sounds like a good plan JR
I'm a mastermind.
* typo correction
