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zilke says:
Serenity. Tranquility. Peace. Love. At one with the earth. Contentment. Smiles. Liberating. Calm. Surfing!
Surfing…
As the powerful ocean hits my legs I gasp at the coldness as I continue pushing through the force of the water that splashes up. I can’t explain how liberating this exact moment is, unless you have tried it before, you will not understand, perhaps relate from another angle, but nevertheless. Surfers have a silent language, almost like a secret, that a mere smile of recognition tells a thousand of words, of acceptance. An escape. From what? From life. Politicians. Scandals. Murders. Corruption. Traffic. Pollution. Busy malls. Expenses. Screaming kids. Cigarettes. Beggars. All we want is just a moment, a little glimpse, a mouthful for taste. Back to our roots. A reminder of youth. As kids. Carefree.
Another wave comes rolling towards me. This one bigger. More aggressive. I wait and decide from which angle I will jump over it. As the wave and I connect my board shields me as I push my board up and over. Once on the other side I swiftly hop on my board. Find my balance and with ease start paddling to my destination. My practiced arms work diligently and I watch as with each stroke my hand breaks the stillness of the water and the flow starts and soon I’m gliding. I can’t encumber my smile. The swell is big. It’s a little after early morning. The trees are still. The mountain is bold. And I push my board down. Under the wave I force. My breathe held in. All sounds are muted for one second, two seconds, three seconds and up into the light once more. A couple more strokes and I am at the back of all concurrent swells. My breathing slows down as I lift myself to sit on my board. And there it is. There I am. Here I am. In what feels like the middle of the ocean. I look around at the other surfers. All have one thing in common- an insatiable thirst for adrenalin. We all sit in silence. Such golden silence. Waiting. I have never enjoyed waiting so much as this. You not only in nature. You are a part of nature. I feel so vulnerable. From the shore the people sit. Bathing. Playing. Shouting. Laughing. Never turn your back on the ocean, they say. It’s true. Behind me the perfect wall of smooth green blue water starts slowly moving towards me and I feel the water underneath me move in the suction of the current. Nature in action! Should I take it? I start paddling with the wave. I had already made the decision. The following moment the wave and I are succinct. I paddle once more as I use my hands to lift the weight of my body and there I am. On top of the wave. On top of the world. I hear some cheers from the crowd but it’s silenced by the roaring and crashing water of the wave that now holds my well being and destiny. As I look down in the second before the climax, the peak, where I am overflowing with fear, excitement and adrenalin, I know that this is exactly where I want to be. It’s phenomenal? Hardly
2010-08-25 10:47:47
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